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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.